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starting cannabis seeds in peat pellets

How To Start Seeds Indoors

Get ahead of your growing season and start growing your vegetable seeds indoors. Not only does starting seeds indoors extend your growing season, it’s cost effective and offers a wide range of seed varieties to choose from.

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Here in Colorado, we need to start seeds for some crops indoors to get ahead of the growing season. We grow most of our plants from seed, and although we’ll occasionally buy a plant here or there, we’ve found that starting from seed is the way to go. It’s much more cost effective, since a whole packet of seeds costs less than one plant from the nursery. We also love variety, and buying seed packets offers way more delicious choices than picking plants from your nursery.

WHAT PLANTS TO START INDOORS

Unless you have a really long growing season, the following crops should ALWAYS be started indoors:

  • Tomatoes (6-8 weeks before planting time; transplant to garden after last frost date)
  • Peppers (8-10 weeks before planting time; transplant to garden after last frost date)
  • Eggplants (8-10 weeks before planting time; transplant to garden after last frost date)
  • Herbs, such as basil, oregano and thyme (6-8 weeks before planting time; transplant after last frost date). Herbs can also be direct seeded, but since it takes quite a while to get a large enough plant to start harvesting leaves, we recommend starting indoors.
  • Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, and Brussels sprouts (4-8 weeks before planting time; transplant to garden 4 weeks before last frost date). These brassica plants can also be direct seeded into the garden in June for a fall crop.

These crops can be started indoors or outdoors, but will typically do well direct seeded into the garden. Given the space and time constraints involved in growing indoors, we usually direct seed them into the garden but you can get a jump on the season by starting them indoors:

  • lettuce
  • spinach
  • Asian greens
  • Swiss chard
  • kale
  • kohlrabi
  • peas
  • carrots
  • beets
  • beans
  • radishes

These crops do not transplant well, and will typically do better if direct seeded into the garden (Plant Outdoors):

  • Squash
  • cucumber
  • melon

We put a handy guideline of WHEN AND WHERE TO PLANT YOUR SEEDS at the end of this post.

SEED STARTING

WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Gather up all your seed packets and check the back for planting instructions.

You need a good seed starting mix to start your seeds indoors. Rather than deal with the hassle and mess of distributing the mix into seed trays, we use Jiffy Peat Pellets mini greenhouses, which come with both seed starting trays and compressed Jiffy Peat Pellets. You simply add water to the pellet, and it expands into a small pot for germinating seeds. When we first started using these, we were worried that the fabric around the pellet would hinder root growth. But, after years of experimenting there seem to be no ill effects—the roots grow right through the fabric without a problem. Not only do peat pellets make germinating seeds a breeze, they also make it easier when it comes time to pot your seedlings up.

If you prefer to distribute seed starting mix into seed trays yourself be sure to purchase a mix specifically formulated for starting seeds rather than potting soil. What’s the difference? Seed starting mix has a finer texture and is sterile, which aids in preventing diseases that can infect germinating seeds. And unlike many types of potting soil, seed starting mix does NOT usually contain nutrients. You’d think seedlings need supplemental nutrients right away, but they actually don’t. For the first few weeks of life, seedlings draw all the nutrients they need from the COTYLEDONS (“seed leaves”), which are the first bits of green that poke through the soil upon germination. By the time they need some additional food, you’ll be ready to pot them up into larger containers with potting soil. Whatever method you choose for starting your seeds, DO NOT be tempted to use garden soil. Not only are you asking for disease problems, but seed starting and potting mixes are formulated for optimal water retention and drainage, which you will NOT get from garden soil.

STEPS TO STARTING SEEDS INDOORS

1. Germinate Your Seeds

If you check the back of your seed packet, it will instruct you on the proper planting depth for each variety. We take a relaxed approach to the instructions here, planting all the seeds at about the same depth. We make a small divet, about 1 cm deep, and drop in 2-3 seeds. If you want to follow directions exactly from the back of the packet, go for it! Once we have our seeds in the divets, we cover them lightly with seed starting mix and press down gently.

SEEDS WILL GERMINATE MORE QUICKLY IN WARM TEMPERATURES. A good rule of thumb is 65°F to 75°F for most seedling germination. You can purchase heat mats specifically designed for seed starting. These can be pricey though, and you can achieve the same effect by placing your seed trays on any surface that heats up a little bit. Check the top of your fridge, and if it gets warm, this works well. We put our seed starting trays on top of the fridge. If you have to start your seeds at room temperature, don’t panic. It may just take a few extra days for the seeds to germinate. If you’re forced to start seeds in a cool area, like a basement, then it’s worth investing in heat mats.

GERMINATION ALSO REQUIRES MOISTURE. To retain moisture, we keep the clear plastic coverings from the seed trays on top of the trays until we see green emerging. You don’t need them after this stage. Peat pellets are excellent at holding moisture and we find that we rarely, if ever, need to water them during the germination stage as long as the plastic cover is on. Without the plastic cover they dry out more quickly, so be sure to check periodically. Most seeds do not require light to germinate, but some seeds, like lettuce, do. The light does not need to be intense—just barely cover the seeds with peat and expose to natural light in a room with a window.

How long should germination take?

It depends on the type of plant and the temperature. Warmth will speed up the process considerably. Tomato seeds will germinate in about 6 days at 77°F, but it will take about 14 days at 59°F. From our experience, tomato seeds take about 4-7 days to sprout when seed trays are placed on top of the fridge for added warmth. Rapid germinators like brassicas take only 3-4 days.

Check out our OPTIMAL SOIL TEMPERATURE FOR SEED GERMINATION chart at the end of this post, based on this chart.

TIP: We’ve noticed that if peat pellets are placed in adjacent cells they will be so close together that once the roots break through the fabric, roots from one pot will sometimes grow into another pot. This is not ideal since roots will have to be broken to separate the plants when you are ready to pot-up. Root breakage can set the plants back a bit. We now always place the peat pellets in every other cell so they don’t grow into each other.

2. Supply the right amount of light

Don’t underestimate the power of light! THE NUMBER ONE MISTAKE NEW GARDENERS MAKE WHEN STARTING SEEDS IS NOT PROVIDING ENOUGH LIGHT. While it might be possible to grow seedlings in a south facing window, you will have the most success by providing artificial light. Plants that don’t get enough light stretch upwards, becoming “leggy.” Leggy plants are weak and unhealthy, and will have a difficult time transitioning to the garden.

What type of lights should I use?

You can spend a few extra dollars on grow lights, but LED shop lights or fluorescent lights work well too and are less expensive. We recommend using four bulbs per shelf because it spreads the light over a larger area. We also use fixtures with adjustable chains to easily adjust the height as the plants grow. We attach the lights to a wire shelving system.

When should I put seedlings under lights?

When you see the first bit of green pop through the soil, it’s time to get your seedlings under lights. Once you see that first seedling emerge, remove the plastic cover and place the whole tray under lights.

PLACE THE SEED TRAY AN INCH OR TWO BELOW THE LIGHT SOURCE (seriously, that close!) and KEEP THE LIGHT ON FOR ABOUT 16-18 HOURS A DAY. An outlet timer is helpful. As plants grow, use the adjustable chains to ensure the lights remain 1-3” above the plants. Remember, a short, stalky plant beats a tall spindly one any day. If for some reason you can’t use artificial lights, place the seedling trays near a sunny, south facing window during the day in direct light for AT LEAST 8 hours.

TIP: Sometimes your seedlings will grow at different heights, and adjusting the height of your lights will benefit only the taller plants. There are two workarounds that will PROVIDE EVEN LIGHT TO BOTH SHORTER AND LONGER PLANTS.

Group the taller plants in one side of the tray, and the shorter plants together in the other side. Adjust the length of the chain on the lights so the taller plants have a shorter length of chain and the shorter plants have a longer length of chain.

Another option is to PUT A FEW BOOKS UNDER THE SHORTER SEEDLINGS to even out the height.

3. Seedlings Need Moisture

We bottom water the seedlings, pouring room temperature water to fill the bottom of the seed tray. The water will wick up each peat pellet. This is an easy and efficient way to water a bunch of seedlings all at once. When the tops of the soil start to dry out, we bottom water again.

The soil should be slightly dry in between watering, and the soil will be lighter in color once it starts drying out. Too much moisture causes mold, so we make sure not to overwater. AIM FOR DAMP BUT NOT COMPLETELY SATURATED. We may go 2-3 days between watering depending on the temperature in our house as well as how big our seedlings are.

4. Thin Your Seedlings

Since you’ve planted more than one seed per pot, you’ll usually have more than one seedling emerge. Once plants have one set of true leaves, USE SCISSORS TO SNIP ANY WEAK OR OVERCROWDED SEEDLINGS. Snip the stem at the soil line so that you have only one seedling left per pot.

If you can’t bring yourself to snip your plants, or you don’t have enough, separate the seedlings and transfer to new cells. This may damage the root systems—the plants will most likely recover, but it may set them back a bit.

5. Repot Your Seedlings

Once the seedlings emerge, you’ve still got several weeks before they’re ready for the garden. Limiting the root system can stunt plant growth, so transplant the seedlings to bigger pots (“potting-up”) to give the roots more room to spread.

How do you know when to pot-up?

Once your plants have at least 2-4 true leaves (not counting the cotyledons) they are ready to be re-potted into larger containers. Sometimes we do it even earlier, especially if there are a lot of roots poking through the fabric of the peat pot and they’re starting to dehydrate. There is flexibility here, but IT’S BETTER TO POT-UP TOO EARLY RATHER THAN TOO LATE.

The choice of pot is important. You want something as deep as possible to permit healthy root growth. We use 16 oz plastic Dixie cups—they’re cheap and work really well. You can disinfect them after use and they will last for multiple seasons. We poke a drainage hole in the bottom of each cup. Any deep container with drainage holes will work, though we’re personally not fans of peat pots (NOT to be confused with peat pellets). From experience they do not break down rapidly enough in the soil and can inhibit root growth.

Fill each pot or cup about ¾ full with potting soil. Add some water and tamp down to eliminate air pockets. Place the entire peat pellet (with fabric) into the soil and fill in with potting soil, just slightly covering the peat pellet. If the plant is a little leggy, bury some of the stem to stabilize it.

When potting up tomatoes, you ALWAYS want to bury the stem because all of the little hairs on the stem will develop into roots.

We use a good organic potting mix that has some nutrients, and we often don’t have to fertilize at all until transplanting to the garden. It’s easy to over-do it with fertilizer on young plants. Slow release organic amendments in the potting soil are ideal.

If you do need to add additional fertilizer as your plants get older (e.g. if your plants leaves are yellowing), we recommend an organic fertilizer derived from kelp or fish emulsion. We dilute it to half the normal concentration. Eventually the cotyledons will turn yellow and fall off—this is completely normal and does not indicate a nutrient deficiency.

6. Harden Off Your Plants

Plants grown indoors take some time to adjust to the harsh sun, wind, and temperature swings in your garden. A few weeks before planting time you can help get them ready by BLOWING A FAN ON THE PLANTS FOR A FEW HOURS A DAY. You may need to water more often. This is a great way to prepare plants for the outdoors, but not absolutely necessary. In fact, most years we don’t get around to it.

About 7-10 days prior to planting time, START ACCLIMATING YOUR PLANTS TO THE OUTDOORS BY SETTING THEM OUTSIDE EACH DAY. We usually leave them out in a partially shaded spot for an hour or two on the first day. We increase the sun exposure and the amount of time the plants are left outside each day. Work up to leaving them out for the entire day and overnight. While this process would ideally be carried out over the course of at least a week or more, we have often done it over 3-4 days without ill effects.

DON’T expose the plants to too much sun on the first day or two. We have severely damaged forgotten plants while attempting to harden them off in the intense Colorado sun.

The soil will dry out quickly in small pots, so you may have to water multiple times a day. Since this is a stressful time for plants, we give them some organic fertilizer during the hardening off period as well.

BEFORE you start, read through our seedling troubleshooting guide to make sure you’re doing everything right for healthy seedling growth.

Peat Pots And Alternatives: Everything You Need To Know To Grow

Jiffy peat pots have been a handy standby for gardeners for many, many decades.

What is a peat pot? They are biodegradable planting pots made from peat moss that has been combined with shredded wood pulp fibers and firmly compressed. For more on what is peat moss?

Jiffy peat pots provide a convenient and gentle way to start seeds and seedlings because you can simply plant the entire pot when you are ready to plant your seedling. This greatly reduces trauma to the roots.

12 Steps To Planting Seeds in Peat Pots

Here is how to use peat pots, follow the steps to follow:

  1. Gather together the supplies you will need. They are:
    • Potting soil or seed starting mix
    • A package of peat pots like these which come in different pot sizes
    • Shallow tray, pan or seed starter peat pot trays
    • A watering can
  2. Fill your watering can with warm water and set it aside.
  3. Place your peat pots side-by-side in your tray. They should be very close together with sides touching.
  4. Fill the pots with the potting mix or seed starting soil mix or a simple 50/50 mix of peatmoss and perlite.
  5. Plant your seeds on the surface of the growing medium. For larger flower seeds, press them down into the soil a bit.
  6. Label as needed if you are planting more than one type of seed.
  7. Pour the warm water gently over all.
  8. Watering will cause the potting soil to settle in the pot. Add more soil to cover the seed and water again.
  9. At this point, your Jiffy peat pots should be sitting in an inch or so of warm water. Allow them to sit in the water for about an hour to soak it up.
  10. If all the water is absorbed simply place the tray in a warm sunny window or in a warm area with good artificial light.
  11. If there is a great deal of water left, you may need to set the peat pots out onto the newspaper for a moment while you pour off the excess.
  12. Keep the soil and the pots uniformly moist by providing a soak whenever they begin to dry. Don’t allow the peat pots to dry out because they will wick moisture away from your plants’ delicate roots.

Transplanting Peat Pot Seedlings

After seed germination and your seedlings mature, you will want to transplant them to their permanent setting. If they are indoor plants, simply transfer them to their containers or pots without transition time.

If you are transplanting them to an outdoor container or garden setting, you will need to transition them gently by allowing them a few hours outdoors every day when the weather is mild.

Start them out with a few hours in the shade, and as they grow stronger and the weather becomes more predictable transition them into sunshine. After a week or two, you can transplant them into your outdoor containers or garden.

Transplanting seedlings in peat pots is very easy because you simply plant the whole pot. You may want to crush it slightly to break it down so that the roots will have an easier time growing through. Be sure that no part of the pot is exposed to air because if the peat dries out it will act as a wick and pull moisture away from the roots of your plant.

Are Jiffy Peat Pots Environmentally Friendly?

Many people like using Peat pots because they are biodegradable, so they are certainly better than plastic pots in this respect; however, are they really environmentally friendly? In fact, we are learning more and more that the gathering of peat moss for horticultural use actually has a very negative impact on the environment.

The reason for this is that peat moss is not a resource that is sustainable. Like rain forest, peat bogs take hundreds of years to grow and develop. Harvesting or mining peat is a destructive process that does away with hundreds of years of growth in a very short period of time.

Why Are Peat Bogs Important?

Peatland is a unique sort of wetland where decomposing moss has been accumulated to at least 16 inches deep. Peat can only accumulate at a rate of about a quarter of an inch annually, so it is easy to see that it takes a very long time for peatland to develop. Peat bogs cover approximately 3% of the surface of the earth, and these bogs have been in the process of developing for several thousand years.

Peat bogs can mostly be found in:

  • Finland
  • Canada
  • Ireland
  • Sweden

Scientists say that these peat bogs are quite fragile and that they are as important to the well-being of the earth as the rain forests. The bogs very often provide unique habitat to rare wildlife and extremely specialized native plants.

Many of these are endangered and can only be found in peat bogs. Companies that mine and sell peat destroy them in a process that decimates wildlife habitat and biodiversity.

Peat bogs are global coolers that absorb carbon dioxide. When they are dried out and harvested, the carbon dioxide is released and contributes significantly to global warming.

As if this were not enough of a loss, peat bogs also act to purify water. When the bogs are destroyed, the water table is lowered, local waterways are negatively impacted and water quality is damaged.

A Wealth Of Knowledge Is Lost

Because peat bogs are very acidic they hold a wealth of environmental and social information. Items that are buried in peat bog decay very slowly because of the acidic conditions. This means that scientists can gather a great deal of information about a wide variety of subjects including:

  • The evolution of vegetation
  • The history of the climate
  • Human activity

Carefully conducted archaeological digs of peat bogs have uncovered a great deal of valuable information, artifacts and even skeletons and the remains of human ancestors that have been buried for thousands of years and have not been preserved in any other environment.

How Is Peat Moss Obtained?

Unfortunately, when peat moss is mined from these delicate ecosystems a network of drainage ditches is dug along with a series of settling basins. This causes the water to be drained away, and the result is that the bog dries out and dies.

With this step complete, all surface vegetation is scraped away and the top layer of peat is exposed to the sun and wind. It is harrowed and plowed to speed up the process of drying.

In just a few short days, the peat which has developed over hundreds of years and provides a wealth of benefits for life on earth is gathered up with a giant vacuum or similar equipment and carried away to be packaged and sold to gardeners for a few dollars.

Can The Damage Be Undone?

While some companies have made efforts to restore the wetlands, the fact is that there is no way to restore them to their original condition. The process of mining peat moss causes too much damage to the land, the flora and fauna and the information that is unique to these settings.

Scientists say that comparing the reconditioned, managed bogs to the original natural bogs is similar to comparing a tree farm to a natural forest. There simply is no comparison. They are not the same sort of entity.

What Can We Do?

We can begin by exploring peat alternatives, and luckily there are many! Not only are there a lot of different materials that can be used instead of peat in gardening, but many of them also are cheap or free and actually work better to amend the soil, provide good drainage and even create biodegradable seed pots.

Gardening Alternatives To Peat Moss Planters

Instead of running out to buy peat as a garden soil amendment, try:

    which we really like
  • Well Rotted Farmyard Manure
  • Spent Mushroom Compost
  • Composted Garden Waste
  • Green Kitchen Waste
  • Wood Waste

All of these perform better than peat moss as a soil amendments because they contain more nourishment. They are also either cheaper or absolutely free.

Instead of peat as mulch, try:

  • Spent Mushroom Compost
  • Composted waste from the garden
  • Shredded Tree Pruning
  • Chipped Bark
  • Coco Shells
  • Leaf Mold
  • Straw

All of these perform better than peat moss as mulch because peat moss dries out easily and blows away.

Alternatives To Jiffy Peat Pots and Surprising Substitutes

Eggshells make an excellent substitute for Jiffy peat pots. They are biodegradable, rich in calcium and absolutely free. All you have to do is save them up instead of throwing them away or tossing them into your compost heap. Even if you don’t use many (or any) eggs, you can ask your friends and relations to share theirs.

12 Steps To Use Eggshells As Seedling Starter Pots

  • When you crack your eggs, take a little care to do it as neatly as possible. If you are able to retain the bottom two thirds of the shell by cracking it closer to the top, that’s ideal.
  • Rinse your empty shells and set them aside to dry. An empty egg carton with the top cut off makes an excellent drying rack.
  • Keep your eggshells in the egg carton when you plant your flower seeds. You can also use the egg carton top as a tray to provide a little bit of strength and support.
  • Fill the eggshells with potting soil leaving a little bit of room at the top.
  • Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil liberally.
  • Poke a little hole in the soil using the tip of a pen, pencil or similar object.
  • Drop in your seed or seeds.
  • Cover the seeds with potting soil.
  • Spray liberally again.
  • Place your egg carton/seed tray in a warm, sunny (or well lit) place.
  • Mist liberally every day to keep the soil moist.
  • When your seedlings are ready to transplant, transition them as needed and then crush the eggshells slightly and plant the entire root ball and shell.

There is no need to worry that the shell will wick moisture away from your plants’ roots. It will simply decompose and provide your plant with valuable calcium.

Sphagnum Moss vs Peat Moss

Although they come from the same source, the sphagnum peat and peat moss are entirely different. Sphagnum peat moss starts out as a spaghnum that dies and eventually over-grown by new sphagnum moss. Over the years, the many layers of dead sphagnum along with other decayed plants, make a bog which is called the peat moss.

A good quality sphagnum peat moss should only compose sphagnum. No other plants should die and over-grow the sphagnum for it to become pure.

For plants requiring soil with neutral PH, sphagnum makes a perfect alternative. Compared to peat moss with an acidic nature, the spaghnum moss serves as a great starter medium and amendment to potting soils.

On the other hand, the Canadian sphagnum peat moss come from peat bogs of natural wet land ecosystems of Canada, Russia, and Northern Europe. It serves as a natural and organic soil conditioner known for regulating air and moisture for the benefit of plant roots.

Do It Easy With Jiffy

Jiffy Peat Pots, marketed as Jiffy Pots, these pots are made up of compressed peat. The jiffy pot integrates with the root system and protects the plant from transplant shock during a transfer.

Jiffy started out with use of nylon stockings which gave birth to the idea of well-aerated and compact miniature pots. Now, it evolved into a high-tech netting which receives continuous upgrade today. They sell a wide-range of products to help every gardener in their peat soil and transplanting issues.

Jiffy Peat Pellets

Jiffy Peat Pellets and Coco Pellets will make it easy for you grow your own plants in a planting pot and prepare it for transplanting. Just add water and see it grow seven times its purchased size. Its fine netting ensures optimum air and water exchange.

It’s technically a pot and soil in one, giving you heaps of advantages. Instead of a heavy peat soil, you get this compressed pellets made from renewable coco fibers or sphagnum peat moss. Jiffy peat pellets and offers great convenience and effectiveness and planting. Moreover, it comes with a XXL size, ideal for larger plants.

Video: Starting Seeds With Eggshells

Here is a delightful video that can help you learn how to use eggshells as seed pots. Note that in this video, the presenter adds an extra step by boring a small drainage hole in the bottom of the eggshell before adding potting soil.

He speculates that this step may not be necessary, and indeed if you are watering with a plant mister you will probably not need to add drainage.

Cheap or Free Biodegradable Peat Pot Alternatives Abound!

In addition to eggshells, there are lots of creative, innovative ways to make your own biodegradable seed starting pots. Here are a couple of possibilities.

Toilet Paper Rolls

Save up your toilet paper and paper towel rolls and use the tubes as starter pots. Toilet paper rolls are just about the right size as-is. Paper towel rolls can be cut to any size you wish.

To use these cardboard tubes, simply pack them closely in a tray, fill them with potting soil and plant away! You would plant your flower seeds in a manner very similar to those described for both Jiffy peat pots and eggshells.

You can plant the entire paper towel or toilet paper roll along with the root ball. You may want to pull it away a bit to help the roots grow through and take hold, but the cardboard should biodegrade quite nicely on its own.

Use Newspaper

Make seed starter pots from scratch using black and white newspaper. There are a number of different ways to fold or roll or otherwise create very nifty little seed starter pots using black and white newspaper.

Online video instructions range from extremely simple to origami-like in steps and complexity. We have chosen to share a video in which the presenter shows the very simplest method; however, if you enjoy complex and ingenious folding, there are a number of videos to be found online that can will suit your fancy.

The main thing to remember when using newspaper to create biodegradable, free seed starter pots is that you must use only black and white newsprint. Don’t use shiny, colorful paper because the dyes used in this type of paper are likely to contain toxic heavy metals.

How to Make Biodegradable Plant Pots – Homemade Seed Starting Pots

Are Peat Pots Passé?

While large peat pots are certainly traditional and have been very useful to gardeners for many decades, with the information we now have it seems quite clear that it is smarter, thriftier and more environmentally friendly to seek out alternatives.

In the world in which we live today, it behooves us all to make the most of the resources we have. When we remember to reduce, reuse and recycle as often as possible, we can make a real difference in the condition of our one and only habitable planet.

How do you start marijuana seeds in water?

Drop your seeds into the glass of water and leave them to soak in a dark place that holds a temperature between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius. After 10 minutes, check on the seeds. If a few are floating at the top, gently tap them to see if they sink. (If they don’t, just let them float!)

How do you germinate marijuana seeds in Jiffy pellets?

3. Germinating weed seeds using peat pellets (jiffy pellets)

  1. Pour water over each pellet until it expands to its full size.
  2. Make a hole in the pellet and add seed to each hole.
  3. Store in a dark, warm and fairly humid place until germination.

Can I germinate seeds in tap water?

One easy way to make seeds germinate faster is to presoak them for 24 hours in a shallow container filled with hot tap water. Water will penetrate the seed coat and cause the embryos inside to plump up. Don’t soak them for longer than 24 hours because they could rot. When the seeds sprout roots, transfer them to pots.

Do good seeds float or sink?

Water test: Take your seeds and put them in a container of water. Let them sit for about 15 minutes. Then if the seeds sink, they are still viable; if they float, they most likely will not sprout. If it needs more water, carefully mist the towel to where it is damp, but be careful not to apply too much water.

Will chlorinated water kill seeds?

If chlorinated water is used during the biological seed treating process, it can have an adverse affect on biological treatments. Therefore, the recommendation is to avoid using water directly from a municipal supply line in the preparation of biological seed treatments.

Can I germinate with tap water?

For consistent germination results, soak seeds in distilled purified water before placing them in germination soil. To improve nutrient or mineral levels in crops, tap water may be best. Provide consistent moisture but do not oversoak the seeds while they germinate.