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seed to harvest cannabis day 38

Can You Grow Cannabis in a Mini Tent?

I love growing in a mini tent so I completely understand why you’re interested in trying it yourself! You can use these tents for your seedlings and clones, or you can even grow a few small plants from seed to harvest. Many different models in this size are available on Amazon.com.

I’m using the 2’x2’x3′ Grow Tent by CoolGrows. I’ve tried a few different grow tents in this size and any similar tent works great.

Here are some of the cannabis plants I’ve grown in this tent so far:

This is what the four plants looked like before harvest

Total yield: 166.78g or 5.88 oz

2nd grow under a HLG 100 Quantum Board (100W LED grow light)

Total yield: 156g or 5.5 oz (under a 100W light, which is 1.56g/watt!)

Here is an example of the buds produced! (This was Auto Amnesia by MSNL)

Growing a single Pineapple Chunk plant (instructions below)

We’ve even grown in the 4′ tall tent with a mini DWC/hydro system! A tight fit but doable.

Here are step-by-step instructions on how to train your cannabis plants to stay short and manageable in a small grow space.

How to Make Cannabis Plants Stay Small and Still Produce a Lot of Weed

Main Idea: Train plants to grow flat and wide like a table in the vegetative stage.

  • Cut off the top of young plants – Cut off the top of young plants in the vegetative stage. Cutting off the top of a plant is often called “topping” in the cannabis growing world. Topping splits any stem into two, and a plant with two tops is easier to spread out to create flat plants than a plant with one main top
    • Beginner tip: Wait until the seedling has grown 6 sets of leaves. Cut off the top through the main stem above the 5th set of leaves (pictures below). Easy and simple, yet won’t stress plants. After being topped, your plant is easier to spread out and naturally grows more bushy and wide.

    Here’s an example of training plants to grow wide and flat for more bud sites and bigger yields.

    Cut off the top of a young plant right above the 5th set of leaves (“top” the seedling above the 5th node)

    When cutting through a stem, be careful not to damage the growing tips at the base of each leaf. These will become your two new stems.

    Topping splits the main stem into two. You can see the two new “main stems” on each side of the cut.

    Since you waited until the plant had several sets of leaves before cutting a small piece off the top, it will continue growing as if nothing happened.

    As the plant grows, spread out the branches and cut off the top of any stem that’s getting bigger than the others. You don’t want your plant putting too much energy into any one branch.

    The plant was transplanted to a mini grow tent under an HLG 65 4000k LED grow light and given a week to adjust to the new environment.

    Bend over all the stems down and away from the center until it looks flat from the side

    I used plant twist tie to hook on to each branch and tie it down where I wanted. I attached the other end to the fabric pot.

    How to attach to the pot? You can use safety pins or binder clips but I think this is easier. Poke holes in the fabric using sharp pointy Fiskars pruning scissors and thread the twist tie through.

    Back to training. Here’s a top view. We’re trying to fill the entire tent with this plant.

    A few days later the plant has filled in nicely. Repeat the steps until you’ve filled your entire grow space.

    Initiate 12/12 when plants have complete coverage at the height you want. Look at all the bud sites on this 1 plant right as it starts flowering

    Here’s a side view. At this point, the only thing to do is water the plant and give it nutrients until harvest.

    At harvest, this plant was just over 18″ (46 cm) tall, yet yielded several ounces because it was trained to grow wide and flat. Talk about making the most out of one small plant!

    Four Strategies to Protect Your Plants from Frost

    Eek!! The weather report predicts frost and overnight lows near or below freezing! What to do.

    Don’t worry, keep in mind that a frost is different than a freeze, and there are several easy strategies you can do to help protect your plants from frosty temperatures. And in the fall, some crops, like carrots, parsnips, and beets, only become sweeter in flavor after a frost.

    Know Your Frost Dates

    First things first! Always keep in mind your local average frost dates – first frost and last frost.

    In the fall as temperatures start to cool, the first day of the year that a frost occurs is considered the first frost date. As the temperatures continue to cool, usually about a week or two later, the first freeze date of the year will occur (this is what kills most annual plants). Missoula’s first frost date is September 22nd, and the first freeze day is mid October.

    In the spring, as temperatures begin to warm back up, the last day of the year we can expect a frost is the average last frost date. Missoula’s last frost date is May 18th.

    These dates are based on historical weather data collected over a 30 year period, so they are usually accurate but by no means exact. Be diligent, check the weather report regularly or set up a weather app alert to keep an eye on the overnight lows. When temperatures are expected to dip near or below freezing, utilize these four strategies below to temporarily protect your plants.

    Assess: How Bad Is It?

    It’s not just the temperature but the length of time that temperatures are at or below freezing that damages plants. Just as a lower temperature is harder on a plant than a temperature at or near freezing, very cold temperatures that last several hours is much harder on a plant than an hour or less of freezing temps. Keep this in mind along with several key definitions listed below when evaluating the severity of the weather report.

    Frost Advisory – This is when the temperature is expected to fall to 36 degrees to 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

    Freeze Warning – This is issued when there is at least an 80% chance that the temperature will hit 32 degrees Fahrenheit or lower.

    Light freeze – 29° to 32° Fahrenheit will kill tender plants.

    Moderate freeze – 25° to 28° Fahrenheit is widely destructive to most vegetation.

    Severe or hard freeze – 25° Fahrenheit and colder causes heavy damage to most plants.

    Assess & Prioritize

    Do you know which plants in your garden are considered “hardy” and can handle a light frost or considered “tender” and will be injured or die by freezing temperatures? Check out this handy growing guide from Montana State University Extension that lists common garden veggies and their frost tolerance.

    Hardy vegetables will do just fine without any extra protection from the frost. But, take a good look at your tender crops and prioritize what to protect based on what has a good harvest that could ripen in the next couple weeks. Prioritize your time, energy and money on the plants and anticipated harvests that are most valuable to you. Is it worth covering your bitter lettuce? Probably not. Do your tomato plants have a lot of fruit that can still ripen in the next month? Yes? Great, let’s take action.

    How to Take Action

    1. Water – Water acts as an insulator. Plant cells that are plump with water will be stronger against cold damage. Likewise, moist soil will tend to stay warmer than dry soil, so a good soaking right before freezing temperatures can help protect plants.

    2. Cover – The soil also acts as a great insulator and thermal regulator (which is one reason why root vegetables nestled in the soil can handle a couple frosts). Cover tender plants with commercial frost cloths or row cover (found at most garden and hardware stores). Old bed sheets, burlap, tarps, or even plastic buckets placed over baby plants in early spring can protect plants from frost. Make sure to stake the material down so wind doesn’t blow it off and that the cover goes all the way to the ground in order to maximize insulation and keep the heat from the soil close to the plants.

    Be careful! If you do use a plastic sheet, keep it from touching any foliage or fruit. The cold will transfer through the plastic and burn the plant. For small plants, you can cover them with an inverted bucket or flower pot. Remember to remove the cover when temperatures rise during the day.

    Students at the PEAS Farm lay commercial row cover over the pepper plants. You can do this too in your garden to protect tender plants from a frost!

    3. Plant Later – Some of the most devastating frosts can happen in the spring around or after the average last frost date (May 18th). Before planting your frost sensitive crops (e.g. tomatoes, peppers, squash), check the weather forecast and plan to plant after any frosty weather. Don’t worry, even if you have to wait a week or two for the weather to warm up, your warm weather crops will catch up quickly with growth and vigor. Cold air and soil temperatures stress warm weather crops and can make them more susceptible to pests or disease later down the road. As difficult as it is, it’s best to wait. Your tomatoes will thank you!

    4. Harvest Early – If it’s fall and nearing the end of harvest season, keep in mind that many vegetables and fruit will ripen at your home after being harvested. Tomatoes, tomatillos, apples, peaches, plums and pears will continue to ripen off the plant. Place in a paper bag in a dark, cool part of your house and check on it a couple times a week. Eat as they ripen and always remove anything that is moldy or rotting.

    5. Mulch – As we move into late fall and consistently cold nights, mulch the hardy vegetables to bolster their frost tolerance.

    Pick your tomatoes a little early if you’re worried about a frost or freeze. Most will ripen at home stored in a brown paper bag.

    See also  cake and chem seeds