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30 day seed to flower cannabis

How to Speed Up Harvest Time

Many of our readers write in to ask about speeding up the time to harvest.

So, how long does it actually take to grow marijuana?

Short Answer: From Day 1 of your marijuana plant's life to a smokable harvest, you are looking at a window ranging between 3 and 7+ months!

Many factors will affect the total time, but the average grow takes 3-4 months. Learn more about the marijuana growth timeline.

Long Answer: These factors have the greatest impact on total time to harvest:

Plant strain – strain has the largest impact on growing time.

Desired yields – do you want to grow a few grams, a few ounces, or a few pounds?

Growing method – differing grow methods/setups can add or subtract a few weeks or even months!

7 Tactics To Get To Harvest As Quickly As Possible

Faster is not always better, but there are ways that you can speed up the time from seedling to harvest without sacrificing quality, potency or yields.

So today I'd like to share a short guide on how you can reduce the time to harvest, and how you can reduce the amount of time you actually spend tending your plants, and still get outstanding results.

If you're serious about getting yields as quickly as possible, then these tactics will get you there the right way! Let's get to it!

1.) Fewer Hours of Light Each Day in Flowering Stage

With photoperiod (regular) strains, you can manipulate the light schedule in the flowering stage to get buds to mature faster. Although most plants will start flowering when they get less than 13 or 14 hours of light a day (that's when plants usually start flowering outdoors), it can take them a long time to "finish" and be ready to harvest with days that long.

Because of that, it's recommended to give plants 12 hours of light each day, and 12 hours of dark to get the plant to start flowering, because plants usually finish maturing in about 8-12 weeks after the switch to 12/12.

However, some Sativa and Haze strains are from the equator, and they may not flower properly under a 12/12 light schedule. In that case, a grower can give a plant 10 or 11 hours instead of 12 hours of light a day, like a 11/13 or 10/14 schedule. This will cause the plant to finish flowering faster. In fact, this can be done to any strain to get it to finish flowering faster.

Give plants only 10 or 11 hours of light a day to get buds to mature faster

The one downside is that a shorter flowering stage with less hours of light each day mean that buds get less time to fatten and you will end up with smaller yields. Therefore it's not recommended to try to get a plant to finish flowering in less than 8 weeks, as you'll end up with very small yields. This technique is best used if you have a plant that's been flowering for 2-3 months and doesn't look like it plans on stopping any time soon.

How can this technique reduce yields? ​The less light you give your plant overall during its life, and especially in the flowering stage, the less your yields will be in general. A strain that takes longer to finish flowering usually produces bigger yields than a short-flowering strain because it gets so many extra light-hours where it's making energy and fattening buds.

On a similar note, an auto-flowering plant gets pretty great yields considering it goes from seed to harvest in just 3 months. A big part of that is because they get 18 hours/light a day during their entire flowering period (compared to only 12 a day for regular plants)/ This gives the plant more light each day to produce buds, resulting in bigger yields.

2.) Choose A Quick-Finishing Strain of Marijuana

As you probably know, the life cycle for all marijuana plants is separated into two parts: the vegetative stage and the flowering stage.

The vegetative stage can be shortened by getting the plant to grow faster when she's young. Yet the length of the flowering stage (the time between when flowers first start forming and when the plant is ready to harvest) is pretty much strain-specific.

That means that once you've started flowering a specific strain, there isn't a whole lot good options to speed things up during the flowering stage.

Note: There are special light schedules, that involve lowering the amount of light each day in the flowering stage, which can sometimes get harvest to come a little quicker. For example a 10-14 schedule (10 hours light, 14 hours dark each day) during the flowering stage may get plants ready to harvest a week or two sooner for some strains, but lowering the amount of light each day combined with harvesting sooner really hurts your yields.

Many Indica hybrids (such as AK-48 and Northern Lights) naturally have very short flowering periods of only 7-9 weeks, which is a shorter flowering time than most other strains.

Hazes and Sativas often take much longer. For example a haze strain (like Haze from Nirvana) can take 3-4 months in the flowering stage before being ready to harvest.

Every different strain has pros and cons, but if time is a factor for you, pay close attention to the length of the flowering stage when deciding which strain to grow. The majority of seed banks list the length of the flowering period as part of their stats for each strain.

Some strains are 'auto-flowering' and go through their whole life cycle regardless of light cycle or anything you can control. These strains tend to be ready to harvest in only 2-3 months from seed (though you should definitely expect smaller plants with relatively small yields when choosing an auto-flowering strain).

Auto-flowering strains of marijuana contain higher levels of CBD, a cannabinoid which has been associated with many medical benefits. So they may be the perfect choice for a medical marijuana user who needs to harvest quickly.

Also, check out my recent autoflower grow if you want to see autos in action…

In this auto-flowering grow, I harvested more than 6 ounces in less than 3 months!

3.) Give Plants 24 Hours of Light per Day During the Vegetative Stage

As long as you give your plants more than 14 hours of light a day, they will stay in the vegetative stage. But if you give the plant more light than that, they have more time in the day to grow!

Some growers believe it's better to give marijuana plants 18 hours of light a day max, with a 6 hour dark period during the vegetative stage.

This is because plants grown under 18/6 tend to be more resilient to problems. If you have a sick plant, just reducing the light period and/or light intensity a little bit can help it recover faster.

Regardless of which is best for plant health, it's a proven fact that marijuana plants given a full 24 hours of light a day will grow at least a little faster during the vegetative stage (however, you may consider back down to 18/6 if your plant is sick to help it recover from problems faster).

Therefore, if a short time to harvest is of the utmost importantance to you, you may want to consider going with the 24 hour light period during the vegetative stage for fastest growth. Again, this won't make the plant's flowering stage go any faster, but it enables you to start the flowering stage a little bit sooner. Speaking of which…

4.) Initiate The Flowering Stage Sooner

You may not realize that regular (non auto-flowering) marijuana plants can be flowered directly from seed.

When I say "flowered," what I mean is that you can change the light schedule so that it forces your young seedlings to start making buds right away.

You can get a marijuana plant to start flowering by ensuring that it gets 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night, often referred to as the 12-12 light schedule.

This makes the plant "think" winter is coming, and it'll start making buds as soon as it's able. This means that your "flowering stage countdown" begins within about a month from the seed being planted.

So for example, Northern Lights has a flowering stage length of about 8 weeks. If you flowered a Northern Lights strain plant from seed, your buds would be ready to harvest in about 11-12 weeks.

Some growers will also flower marijuana clones as soon as they have formed roots, for basically the same effect, though clones tend to start flowering a little faster than a plant put on 12-12 directly from seed.

That being said, flowering from seed is a very inefficient manner of growing. Plants flowered from seed don't get enough time to grow stems where buds form.

If you want to initiate flowering early, it's better to do so after after waiting just a bit, so you grow plants that are relatively small but can produce more than a couple of grams worth of bud. This is known as the "Sea of Green" (SoG) technique. A bunch of smaller plants is easy for new growers to manage, plus it gives you the option of trying different strains instead of getting of lot of one strain.

5.) Grow Indoors

Growing outdoors can be more convenient and vastly cheaper for those who happen to live in a place with great growing conditions since the sun and nature are doing a lot of work for you. But outdoor growing isn't the fastest way to grow and harvest your crop. Though there is an exception….

Outdoors, you must plant in the spring, and wait until late fall to harvest. That means that oudoor grows can take 6+ months. Given the right conditions (high-yielding strain, direct sunlight all day, good soil, avoid pests, etc) you can grow huge plants in that time, that produce pounds of buds.

Yet growing indoors gives you the ultimate control over how big your plants get, how long to keep them in the vegetative stage, and exactly when they start flowering amongst other things. You also have a lot more control over how much bud you'll end up yielding.

With a well-chosen strain and a good setup, one can harvest several ounces of buds in less than 4 months indoors, which is nearly impossible to do outdoors in the same timeframe.

On a similar note, you might want to consider hydroponics over soil.

You can get faster vegetative growth with almost all hydroponic methods compared to what can be achieved with soil. That means that you could speed up time til harvest by using Deep Water Culture (DWC), Coco coir/perlite, or pretty much any non-soil growing medium. During the flowering stage, this isn't as important, but this can shave weeks off your vegetative stage time (get straight to growing buds sooner!)

See also  how ton track cannabis seed to sale

In my experience, top-fed Deep Water Culture hydroponics (also called 'bubbleponics') has given me the quickest growth of any hydroponics system I've tried.

6.) Pay Attention To Your Plants and Quickly React to Problems

I know this sounds like it doesn't need to be listed, but it's a more important job than people think. Every time your plants get sick, it slows down their growth while they try to recover. Every problem your plant runs into can add days or even weeks on to your total grow time.

Simply put: fixing a problem quickly equates to shorter time to harvest.

Plus, by reacting quickly to problems, you will save yourself the stress of trying to deal with a huge problem that's gotten out of control since you've been watching out and adjusting along the way. We all know that problems tend to get much worse when left unchecked!

The more you tend to and baby your plants, the better they will grow, and the faster you will be able to harvest.

For example, the following plant problems will add time onto your grow

    or a pest infestation can dramatically slow down growth, especially for young plants or light burn can not only slow down growth in the vegetative stage, they can prevent buds from maturing properly in the flowering stage
  • accidentally re-vegging your budding plants will stop buds from maturing

7.) Make Sure You're Feeding Plants The Right Type of Nutrients During Each Stage of Growth.

In the vegetative stage, it is important that you give your plants the right nutrients needed to get optimal growth.

Now if you're starting with a good soil (Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil is a proven choice), you may not need to supplement any nutrients for the first 3-4 weeks, as the nutrients you need are already in the soil.

If you're growing hydroponically (directly in water, or in a soil-less medium like coco coir), it is essential that you provide all the nutrients your plant needs right from the beginning.

You've probably seen 'N-P-K' numbers on the bottles of pretty much every nutrient line there is. These number are important to know since cannabis plants use more N (nitrogen) in the vegetative phase, and relatively more P & K (phosphorus & potassium) in the flowering phase. Conversely, giving your plant too much N in the flowering phase will actually slow down bud production. This means that you will harvest smaller yields of less-dense buds in addition to waiting longer for said buds!

This is why you need to either mix your nutrients by hand, or choose a nutrient system that is specifically formulated for the flowering stage of a plant like marijuana. By providing the right nutrients at the right time, you'll reduce your overall time to harvest.

How Much Time Per Week Does It Take To Grow Cannabis?

Now that you're equipped with the information to get you to harvest as soon as possible, let's quickly address another common question we receive about time.

Growers often write in to ask us how much time it will take per week to grow a marijuana plant. We understand that many of you have busy schedules, and want to know if growing your own weed is a realistic goal for you.

The amount of time spent growing varies greatly depending on the method you use to grow, the size you let your plants get and the skill of the grower. But that doesn't mean there isn't a growing method that's conducive to spending less time plant-tending.

The truth is, you can grow weed in only 20-30 minutes a week when you use the right techniques and get used to the process of growing. The following article reveals the best way we know to grow lots of potent bud while using a minimum amount of time to do so. We make this happen using a hydroponic style of growing known as Top-fed DWC (aka "bubbleponics").

Keep in mind that this is a fairly advanced technique, and should only be attempted by intermediate-advanced growers or particularly brave newcomers.

About Nebula Haze:

Medical m arijuana has had a huge impact on my life, and I'm dedicated to showing you how easy it can be to grow your own medical-grade buds.

I have made it my mission in life to make growing information available to anyone, both new and advanced growers, while also working to get marijuana legalized for all adults.

A Complete No Till Living Soil Cycle with Calendar & Feeding Schedule

Alright, alright, you’ve all been asking for this since we started publishing tips and tricks on growing cannabis, so here it is a full cycle calendar for growing cannabis our no-till living soil way!

Remember, organics is very forgiving and these exact amounts don’t need to be followed perfectly. A lot of times we use the handful method.

Preparing Your Pots:

Before we begin, you should know that you will want to use 15-gallon pots or larger. Personally, we prefer 30-gallon fabric pots or beds.

Now, fill those pots with your soil and water them. You will want to water in about a gallon and a half of water into each 15-gallon pot. An easier way to look at it is to use 1 gallon of water for every 10 gallons of soil you have (this is a general “rule of thumb” and may vary).

Grower Tip: Peat Moss can be difficult to fully dampen, to help with this you can add aloe and yucca to the water. Then, simply mix and water in.

Soil Preparation:

With all the pots filled, you will want to add the following to the top of your soil in each 15-gallon container:

  1. Sow 1 tablespoon per square foot of cover crop
  2. Add in ¼ – ½ cup of alfalfa meal
  3. Spread a ⅓ cup of bokashi per plant
  4. Lay 1 to 3 inches of barley straw mulch

We prefer to let all of this sit in the pots for a few days (even weeks at times). Basically, allow for the cover crop to sprout some prior to transplanting seedlings into these pots.

Before Flowering Your Cannabis Plants:

Now that you have your pots ready and plants transplanted into them, you will need to care for your cannabis plants to prepare them to go into flower. Whether you start your cannabis plants from seed or use clones, you’ll want to get your plants big enough to be flowered and strong enough to produce the scrumptiously delicious buds you’re looking to harvest too!

Grower Tip: If you have any type of height constraints, remember that the plants will stretch once put into flower. For this reason, be sure not to get the plants too large in veg, as they will end up roasting on your indoor lights or being squished against a greenhouse ceiling.

Week 1: Seedling or Rooted Cuttings

For this first week, your plants are probably pretty small, especially if you started them from seed. Either way, you will want to take care of them accordingly.

Personally, we simply add one-application of the following the first week:

  • 1 teaspoon Rootwise Mycrobe Complete per gallon of water (mixed into water)
  • 5 mL Rootwise Enzyme Elixir per gallon of water (mixed into water)
  • Sprinkle bokashi around the plant (usually only a couple of tablespoons)

Then for the rest of the first week, just be sure your soil remains hydrated.

Light Schedule: 18 hours on and 6 hours off

Week 2: Vegetative State

At this point, it’s time to get the cannabis plants big enough to enter flower! Again, depending on your setup, be careful how large you get them in veg.

During this stage, we apply two different applications. One at the beginning of the week and another 3 to 4 days later. The applications are as follows:

  • Application #1: Combine Inputs & Foliar Spray
    • 1 teaspoon Thrive N. Aminos per gallon of water,
    • 5ml of ThermX70,
    • 1/8tsp of Recycle Sil/Grow Sil
    • 1 tablespoon of neem/karanja oil,
    • 1 tablespoon of Dr. Bronners soap (peppermint preferred)
    • 5ml of ThermX70 per gallon of water.
    • Note: You’ll want to ensure this is properly emulsified

    Again, we add the first application once at the start of the week. Then, 3 to 4 days later, you apply application #2. This is continued up until a week before putting the plants into flower.

    Light Schedule: 18 hours on and 6 hours off

    Grower Tip: You can always prune the cannabis plant back some. Many do this to hold on to special strains or keep what we call “moms” around to easily grab clones from. Therefore, avoiding having to start from seed and sort the males from females every time that you want to flower out some plants.

    Week 3: Vegetative State

    For best results, we want to inoculate the soil with microbials every 2 weeks. The below instructions are for small amounts of soil. If you are using multiple yards of soil, you’ll want to use 10 grams of Rootwise Mycrobe complete per yard (1 heaping tablespoon).

    • 1 teaspoon Rootwise Mycrobe Complete per gallon of water (mixed into water)
    • 5 mL Rootwise Enzyme Elixir per gallon of water (mixed into water)
    • Sprinkle bokashi around the plant (⅓ cup per 15 gallon container)
    • Add ¼ cup of Craft Blend to each 15 gallon container

    Light Schedule: 18 hours on and 6 hours off

    Week Before Flower: Pre-Bloom

    The week prior to putting the plants into flower, you will want to alter a few things to provide the plants with an extra boost. After all, they’re about to put in a lot of work to produce those big and beautiful buds we all love so much!

    So, for this week, you will want to add the following items:

    • Top dress with Malibu Compost (Of course, you could choose to use homemade compost)
    • ½ teaspoon Rootwise Bio-Phos per 15 gallons of soil (watered in) (water in)
    • 3-5ml Rootwise Enzyme Elixir per gallon (watered in)
    • Foliar spray Super Phos 23 or Cal Sil

    Usually, we will add a nice thick layer of compost to the top of each plant at the start of the week. Then, water in the Bio-Phos and alfalfa tea right after applying the top dress. This is also a great time to do another foliar application of neem oil as done during week 2 of veg.

    Additionally, this may be a good time to remove any lower branches that will not be getting much light during flower. This will help promote larger buds and faster growth up top.

    Light Schedule: 16 hours on and 8 hours off

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    Flowering Your Cannabis Plants:

    And, we made it to the flowering stage! At this point, your light schedule will change to the standard 12 hours on and 12 hours off until the plants are ripened and ready to harvest!

    Weeks 1-4: Bloom Transition (a.k.a stretching phase)

    During the first few weeks of flowering, your plants will stretch. Some strains stretch more than others, so hopefully, you listened and didn’t get the plants so big in veg that the buds turn to crisp against the light bulbs.

    Week 1
    • 1 teaspoon Thrive N. Aminos per gallon (foliar spray)
    • ¼ teaspoon Big 6 Micros per gallon (water in)
    • 2-3 mL Yucca per gallon (water in)
    • 1 tablespoon Freeze Dried Coconut Water per gallon (water in)
    • Sprinkle bokashi around the plant, as done in previous weeks.
    • 1 oz per gallon alfalfa ferment (watered in)
    Week 2
    • ½ teaspoon Rootwise Bio-Phos per 15 gallons of soil (water in)
    • 3-5 ml Rootwise Enzyme Elixir per gallon (water in)
    • ½ tsp per gallon of BuildABloom (water in)
    • 2-3ml per gallon of yucca (water in)
    Week 3
    • Homemade alfalfa tea (water in)
    • ¼ teaspoon Big 6 Micros per gallon (water in)
    • Foliar spray Thrive. N Aminos, Grow Sil/Recycle Sil and ThermX70.
    Week 4 – Flower
    • ¼ cup per 15 gallon container Craft Blend
    • ⅓ cup per 15 gallon container of Kashi Blend
    • 3-5 ml Rootwise Enzyme Elixir per gallon (water in)
    • ½ teaspoon Rootwise Bio-Phos per 15 gallons of soil (water in)
    • ½ tsp per gallon BuildABloom (water in)

    Light Schedule: 12 hours on and 12 hours off

    Weeks 5-7: Flowering

    While the plants stretch, you will begin to see the first hairs and buds starting to form on the plants. At this point, you may enter your grow room and do a little happy dance at the sheer beauty of these ladies.

    On week 5, you will want to begin applying a one-time application of the following to your pots each week:

    • 2-3 mL Rootwise Enzyme Elixir per gallon (water in)
    • ⅛ teaspoon Rootwise Bio-Phos per 15 gallons of soil (water in)
    • ½ – 1teaspoon BuildABloom per gallon (water in)
    • ¼ teaspoon Big 6 Micros per gallon (water in)
    • 2-3 mL Yucca per gallon(water in)
    • 1 teaspoon Freeze Dried Coconut Water per gallon (water in)
    • 1 oz per gallon alfalfa ferment

    Again, you will only add the above amounts once a week during this time and stop this schedule after week 8 is complete.

    Light Schedule: 12 hours on and 12 hours off

    Weeks 8+: Ripening

    You should have an idea on the overall flowering time of the cultivars you are growing. Some finish at 8 weeks, if this is the case, you may want to cut out the week 7 feeding. Most of the cultivars we grow flower 65-70 days. We like to feed only water the final 3 weeks. You’ll need to use some judgment on when is the best time to harvest. Smell the flowers, look at them carefully each day. Are the calyx’s swollen? Are most of the hairs dark? Are the trichomes cloudy? You should be able to tell when they cease focusing on their buds and are ready to be harvested.

    At this time, you will simply water the plants each day, or as needed. Continue this until the plants are ready for harvesting. If desired, you can add the freeze-dried coconut water once a week, but it is not totally necessary.

    Light Schedule: 12 hours on and 12 hours off

    Harvest & Curing

    When it comes time to harvest your cannabis plants, you will want to be sure that you do it the right way! If you decide that you just can’t wait for it to dry, we promise, you will be sadly disappointed as rapidly drying cannabis negatively impacts the terpenes and overall quality of the finished buds.

    We strongly recommend that you follow the below instructions when harvesting and curing your cannabis.

    Finding a place to cure your plants

    First, find an area where it can remain dark for the duration of the curing process. You will be hanging your cannabis plants in this space. In addition to a dark space, it should remain around 60 degrees Fahrenheit with roughly 60% humidity in the room. Moreover, there should be moving air in the room. If there’s not, it could cause mold or rotting in your cannabis plants to occur.

    The timeframe for curing your plants

    Now that you have your curing area all set up, you will want to let your plants dry over a two week period. By doing so, you can preserve many of those tasty terpenes, which otherwise would be lost by a rapid dry. With the environment setup mentioned above, you should be well on your way to the perfect drying environment.

    Remember, don’t cut away only some of the fan leaves at this stage. You can wait until the cannabis is fully cured to cut most of this away. Just let it hang out in its natural form, using a clothes hanger works well for this.

    After the plants have dried, you will want to cut the branches from the stalk and place in a container/tub or brown paper bag. You will trim the plant from these containers. Once done trimming, place the buds into a glass jar, like a Mason Jar. Every few days, you will likely need to let air out of the jar. This is also known as, burping the jar. You will do this until the moisture you desire is reached.

    Depending on where you live, you may find your buds remain moist for a very long time. However, if you live in a less humid climate like we do, you may find it slightly more difficult to get your cannabis not to dry out rapidly. Therefore, some may need to burp their jars more often than others, take note of how humid the climate you are in is and decide.

    If you want a quick cheat sheet, simply download this PDF calendar here.

    Remember, there’s definitely not just “one way” to do this by any means. And, you too may find that you prefer slight variations of this method as you make your journey growing cannabis in this way.

    Alright, have fun and be sure to tag us in your grows @growing_organic – we love seeing what everyone is up to!

    Micro Grow Yield in a 1’x1’ (30×30 cm) Growbox

    Get an idea of how much bud a 30×30 micro grow can yield based on several cannabis grow journals

    Not every weed grower can afford a full-fledged indoor grow-op. And not all of us need XXL yields. Sometimes, our best or only option is a micro grow. The question is how much such a micro grow can yield.

    Based on our analysis, the average micro grow yield in a 1’x1’ (30 cm x 30 cm) space is 28.5 grams (1.01 ounces). The median micro grow yield is 25.5 g (0.9 oz). To come to these figures, we have reviewed several grow cycles performed in one and the same Ambient Q30 growbox.

    We took all the data and pictures from Grow Diaries, the world’s largest online community of marijuana growers.

    Table of Contents

    Micro Grow Yield Examples

    As you can see from the table below, micro grow yield figures are all over the place. Some of the harvests are just puny, but a few grows show very respectable results. It’s these successful grows that we are going to describe in some detail so that you can maybe replicate them.

    Strain Light Weeks Yield
    Tutankhamon
    Pyramid Seeds
    75W LED
    Unknown Brand
    16
    8 in flower
    60 g
    2.12 oz
    Super Skunk Automatic
    Sensi Seeds
    75W LED
    Invisible Sun
    14
    9 in flower
    54.8 g
    1.93 oz
    Northern Lights
    Expert Seeds
    100W LED
    Unknown Brand
    17
    8 in flower
    35 g
    1.23 oz
    Zkittlez Auto
    FastBuds
    100W LED
    FSGTEK
    10
    6 in flower
    34 g
    1.2 oz
    Critical + 2.0 Auto
    Dinafem Seeds
    100W LED
    Unknown Brand
    10
    6 in flower
    17 g*
    0.6 oz
    Royal CBDV Automatic
    Royal Queen Seeds
    110W LED
    Unknown Brand
    9
    4 in flower
    15 g*
    0.53 oz
    Purple Queen Automatic
    Royal Queen Seeds
    50W LED
    Unknown Brand
    7
    3 in flower
    7 g
    0.25 oz
    Zammi Special
    Zamnesia Seeds
    200W LED
    Unknown Brand
    15
    10 in flower
    5.5 g**
    0.12 oz
    Monster Dwarf Auto
    Zamnesia Seeds
    200W LED
    Unknown Brand
    14
    10 in flower
    5.5 g**
    0.12 oz

    * estimated dry yield (wet weight divided by 5)
    ** combined yield of two plants grown in the same run

    Tutankhamon Grow Journal: Yield – 60 g (2.12 oz)

    A grower with the nickname mr4ton chose to grow a photoperiod Tutankhamon in a micro setup. It took him 16 weeks from seed to harvest, but the yield was spectacular.

    A homemade drip system. The seedling is 1 week old.

    Topping and pruning in week 3.

    Week 5. The grower prunes everything but some foliage on top.

    Week 7. LST and defoliation.

    Week 8. Another heavy pruning and defoliation.

    Week 10. Flowering is underway.

    Week 13. Harvest is near.

    Swipe to see all images in the gallery.

    Carefully Planned Fertigation and Heavy Training

    The grower used a 4.5-liter (1.19-gallon) pot which he filled with Ugro Rhizo peat/coco medium mixed with perlite. He gave his plant 60W in veg and 75W in flower on average. The dimmer on his LED light allowed him to ramp it up to 100W, but it was too much and leaf tips would start to burn. 70-75W would be just right.

    The light schedule was 18/6 in veg, but in weeks 6 through 7, the guy began to gradually shorten the day: 18/6 -> 16/8 -> 14/10 -> 12/12.

    For watering, he installed a homemade drip system and turned it on every morning for 15 minutes or until he saw some runoff.

    For feeding, he used General Hydroponics nutrients: 3-in-1 Flora Series and some other supplements like BioRoot and Diamond Nectar. Sometimes, he also foliar-fed his bonsai plant with BioProtect. And during the flowering stage, he would use G.H. Bloom instead of Diamond Nectar.

    The TDS readings were never very high: up to 600 ppm in veg and no more than 750 in flower. In the last couple of weeks of the life cycle, the grower decreased this number down to 400 ppm (when he was giving his micro bush GHE Ripen as her last dose of PK), and flushed the medium with tap water in the last 2 days before the chop.

    Throughout the grow, the guy performed a lot of canopy management. It was a form of mainlining but done without any plan or schedule. He started with topping in week 3 and then was pruning and defoliating and topping all the way through week 6. In the end, he would have 7 colas with very fat flowers on top but with everything removed down below.

    Super Skunk Automatic Grow Journal: Yield – 54.8 g (1.93 oz)

    Autoflowering genetics are probably more suitable for micro grows than photoperiod ones, and this grow cycle by NanoGrow seems to be proof of that. This micro grow yield was almost as impressive as the previous one, but it took 2 weeks less to achieve this result.

    The Ambient Q30 tent and a 1-week-old seedling.

    Week 2. The seedling tied down with a garden wire.

    Week 4. The plant stays nice and compact without much training.

    Week 5. Leaf tucking.

    Week 7. LST and the start of flowering.

    Week 9. Flowering is underway.

    Week 10. A few hermies (male flowers) detected.

    Week 11. Stem rot treated with H2O2 and candle wax.

    Week 12. Main cola cut prematurely because of stem rot.

    Week 13. Mature colas and a macro shot of trichomes.

    Swipe to see all images in the gallery.

    The Only Issue Was High Humidity

    The grower used a 1-gallon (3.8-liter) smart pot which he filled with an 80/20 coco/perlite mix. He also added some hydroton on top and in the drainage saucer under the pot to slow down evaporation.

    He had to add a dehumidifier bag in week 6 and was glad to see the RH getting lower (40%) in week 10, just as the buds began to really swell up. Unfortunately, humidity started to creep up soon, and he discovered a spot of stem rot. The treatment with H2O2 and candle wax didn’t help. He had to cut off one side branch in week 11 and then the main cola in week 12.

    The grower was also combating high humidity with defoliation. He didn’t like removing more leaves than absolutely necessary. So he started with tucking them, but in week 9, had to defoliate those that were overlapping. The only other form of training was LST, and it was enough to give the canopy a perfectly flat shape.

    He was watering the medium with 400 ml every other day, then (in week 5) switched to daily watering with 200 ml to reduce runoff. However, eventually (starting from week 6), the plant got thirsty and began to drink 450-600 ml a day without much runoff.

    The staple of her diet was Bio Nova Coco Forte A & B which she received from week 1. And in flower, she additionally got P 20 (20% phosphorus) starting from week 6 and K 20 (17% potassium) starting from week 9. In the final 14th week, she was flushed with pH’d water.

    Beyond high humidity and related problems, the only issue was a few male flowers discovered in week 10.

    Northern Lights Grow Journal: Yield – 35 g (1.23 oz)

    With the Northern Lights genetics, a grower calling himself YungSmoke was aiming at the ounce-per-square-foot target. And he made his micro grow yield even more.

    Weeks 4 and 5. Started outdoors and moved inside.

    Weeks 6 and 7. LST to keep the canopy flat.

    Week 10. The first week of 12/12, and the first pistils are coming out.

    Weeks 12 (left) and 13 (right).

    Week 14. Flowers are stacking up.

    Automatic watering system.

    Week 16. Buds are fattening up, and leaves are fading.

    Swipe to see all images in the gallery.

    Great Genetics Made This Run Trouble-Free

    This grow started outdoors, and in week 4 the plant was rather lanky and had long internodes. (Low outdoor temperatures often have this effect.) The little plant was transferred indoors in week 5 and began to receive training right away. The goal was to keep the canopy flat and all the colas at the same distance from the light (a 100W LED). Besides LST, the gardener performed only very light defoliation, plucking some old leaves in the bottom part. Otherwise, he preferred the leaves to senesce and fall off on their own.

    After long spring days outdoors, the light schedule in the tent was 22/2 for the whole of the vegetative phase, then, in week 9, the grower started to reduce light hours a couple of hours at a time. And starting from week 10, it was 12/12 till the end of the flowering stage which lasted 8 weeks.

    Through most of the life cycle, the grower struggled with high temps, and the relative humidity was on a high side — around 50% during flowering. The gardener did not report any issues with mold or bud rot, but the heat resulted in some foxtailing closer to the harvest.

    He used a very small (4-liter/1.06-gallon) plastic pot filled with soil with some coarse perlite mixed in and had to water every day. It was very inconvenient to do manually, so in flower, he installed an automatic drip system.

    He started with no nutrients at all during the outdoor stage, then top-dressed the pot with some generic slow-release fertilizer. Finally, he started using the 3-part BioBizz nutrients: Bio-Grow from week 8, Bio-Bloom from week 9, and Top-Max from week 11. He dialed back Bio-Grow when the stretch slowed down in week 13 and then stopped altogether. And in the last week, he flushed the medium with tap water.

    Zkittlez Auto Grow Journal: Yield – 34 g (1.2 oz)

    The grower martiniii had to keep his Zkittlez Auto small for this micro grow, so he fimmed and then topped his autoflower and performed a lot of LST and defoliation. The guy was learning on the go, and there was some loss of bud due to mold, but overall the plant performed quite well.

    The Ambient Q30 grow tent and the Zkittlez seedling in week 1.

    A homemade carbon filter: the old and the updated versions.

    Fimming, topping, and LST in week 3.

    Zkittlez Auto begins to flower and stack up in weeks 5 and 6.

    Zkittlez Auto in midflower (week 7).

    Some serious flower power (week 9).

    From vibrant to almost dead in just seven days (week 10).

    Swipe to see all images in the gallery.

    A Lot of Equipment for Such a Small Grow

    The grow began in the window, but in week 2, the Ambient Q30 tent was ready for use. The grower equipped it with a dimmable FSGTEK 100W LED quantum board and a 120 mm PC fan for ventilation (which he could ramp up or slow down to regulate the temperature and humidity).

    He also fashioned a DIY carbon filter out of a 110-to-125 mm pipe reducer and a 35 mm layer of activated charcoal. Unfortunately, the PC fan did a poor job pushing the air through the filter. Probably because of too thick fabric.

    So, the gardener had to rethink the design of his carbon scrubber. He used the casing of a PC fan and two dust filter meshes and filled the space between those with activated charcoal. This time it worked but was far from perfect. Sometimes, the humidity and temps got out of control, the filter needed to be removed, and this micro grow smelled up the whole room.

    The guy planted the germinated seed in a 5.5-liter (1.45-gallon) fabric pot filled with an 85/15 soil/perlite mix. As a result, he had a 38 cm (15”) available distance from the pot to the light. A micro grow indeed.

    He started with hand-watering the pot every 3-4 days, but in flower, he began to use an Arduino Uno automatic watering system. It would turn on a 5V DC pump every 12 hours when a sensor signaled that the soil was getting too dry.

    Strong Genetics and Subpar Conditions

    The grower had absolutely no idea what to expect from his setup. He used a smartphone app to measure the light intensity of his dimmable LED. And he probably didn’t dial it in perfectly because the plant was quite leggy from the start. He fimmed her in week 3 but didn’t like the result. So he soon removed the mangled leaves—making it a classical topping—and began to tie down the side branches.

    The plant still had an open structure with long internodes and not too dense foliage, but luckily, she stopped stretching in the 2nd week of flowering, not quite touching the light.

    She received BIOCANNA Bio Vega throughout the vegetative stage and 1 week into flowering and then Bio Flores from week 7. A very simple (and organic) grow.

    It wasn’t so simple with the temperature and humidity control. It was constantly too hot, and the RH never dropped below 55%. In late flower, this led to mold, and the grower had to prematurely cut two fattest colas. Also, for reasons unknown, he let the plant dry out in the last week. These troubles probably affected the final yield very much.

    Some Micro Grow Tips Gleaned From These Journals

    Even a micro grow like this may require a carbon filter to get rid of the smell. And whether you make a DIY filter or buy a ready-made one, you’ll need an extractor fan that is able to push through enough air. And this means that even a micro grow can create some noise.

    In most of the micro grows we’ve reviewed, the gardeners struggled with maintaining optimal temperature and humidity. This seems to be a drawback of a small grow space. One way to reduce humidity is to defoliate as it decreases the evaporation surface of the foliage. The other is to cover the medium with some sort of mulch. Two of the growers used humidity bags, but at least one of them reported no difference.

    A micro grow means the use of a small container. That’s why coco coir seems to be a better alternative to soil. When growing in coco, you can water/feed your plants very often, so you don’t need a large pot and a lot of medium. In other words, coco enables you to achieve the same yield with a smaller root structure.

    Naturally, the smaller the pot, the more frequently you need to water your plant. That’s why your best bet is to use some basic automatic drip system.

    As you have seen, a micro grow yield can be quite high. (If you do everything right, of course.) It can produce enough bud for a casual smoker. But if you smoke more than a half-ounce (about 15 grams) per month, a micro grow probably isn’t for you. You’ll find it more convenient and rewarding to choose a bigger setup. Happy growing!

    See also  black magic seeds